EPISODE 2: Crane Camping
In the middle of the Arctic, between mainland Europe 600 kilometers to the south and the North Pole 1,000 kilometers further north, lies the remote archipelago of Svalbard. Over 400 islands, characterized by massive glaciers and fjords extending deep into the interior, form a landscape where polar bears dominate—not only in numbers. A wilderness without roads, cars, or trees, where leaving the settlement is only permitted with a rifle.
It was here, in this rugged and fascinating frontier, that a friend and I embarked on a journey during the summers of 2015 and 2016, aiming to delve deep into Svalbard's history and wilderness.
Our goal: to explore and document the remnants of Svalbard's illustrious mining past. During our journey, we investigated abandoned sites and mines that have remained dormant for decades.
In this episode, I recount how, after our nocturnal arrival in Longyearbyen, armed with a healthy dose of polar bear paranoia and unwilling to splurge on expensive hotel rooms, we decided to spend the night in the cabin of an old coal crane. This steel structure, erected in 1953 and once the heart of the local coal industry, not only provided us protection from the furry four-hundred-kilogram killing machines but also offered us an unforgettable night with a five-star view.
Date
2015
Location
Longyearbyen, Svalbard
Around midnight at Longyearbyen Airport: We had about nine hours to find some sleep and procure a rifle from the local expedition equipment rental the next morning before catching our ship to the abandoned Soviet ghost town of Pyramiden. Booking a hotel room for just a few hours seemed too cumbersome and expensive. So, we decided to find a suitable place to sleep.
Having immersed ourselves in extensive reading about polar bears before the trip, our “polar bear paranoia level” was at an all-time high. It was clear: our sleeping spot had to be as polar bear-proof as possible. Our first stop was the Longyearbyen campsite near the airport—the northernmost campsite in the world. But as we tried to find someone who was still awake, the polar bear paranoia fully kicked in. “Here? In open terrain? Without a fence? Just a tent between us and a four-hundred-kilogram killing machine? No way, man!”
Not too far away, a large steel object caught our eye: the Titan Coal Crane of Longyearbyen.
This massive structure was built in 1953 to load coal from the nearby storage onto ships and was a central element of Longyearbyen’s coal industry. From the mine entrance, the coal was transported by cable car to the loading dock in Nesset. Since 1922, countless tons of coal had been shipped worldwide from here. But with the decline of the coal industry in recent decades, operations were gradually shut down. Today, the Titan Crane is one of the few remaining relics of that era. Over 30 meters high and visible from afar, it now stands as a protected cultural monument, symbolizing Longyearbyen’s history as a mining town.
Off to the crane!
From the campsite, it’s about a two-kilometer walk to the crane. Without a rifle in an area full of polar bears? Not the best idea. But with our 40 kg heavy backpacks, we tried to cover the distance as quickly as possible—paranoidly eyeing every movement in the landscape. Fortunately, we reached the crane without incident.
Once at the top, we explored the structure and quickly realized: the crane’s cabin was an ideal sleeping spot for the night. Protected from the wind—and hopefully from polar bears as well. So, we made ourselves comfortable, set up our tent, enjoyed a snack, and took in the breathtaking view.
“Better than any five-star hotel.”
We spent the night deeply relaxed in the crane’s cabin. No polar bears, no wind, no problem. The Titan Crane had not only protected us from the Arctic wilderness but also provided us with an experience we wouldn’t soon forget. A good start.
Arctic Coal Episode Index
Sources and Links:
Longyearbyen – Wikipedia: A comprehensive overview of the history of Longyearbyen, including information on coal mining and the various mines.
Longyearbyen Power Station – Wikipedia: Details about Norway’s only coal-fired power plant, located in Longyearbyen, and its significance for the region.
Mine No. 3 (Longyearbyen, Svalbard) – Visitor Information: Information about the decommissioned Mine No. 3, which now serves as a museum offering insights into mining history.
Longyearbyen Mining History – Spitsbergen | Svalbard: An article on the development of mining in Longyearbyen and the importance of the coal industry for the town.
Longyearbyen – Spitsbergen Travel: Background information on the founding and development of Longyearbyen as a mining settlement.
The History of Longyearbyen – The Hidden North: A detailed overview of the history of Longyearbyen, including the role of coal mining and industrial development.Longyearbyen Coal Pits and Ropeway Conveyors – Wikimedia: A collection of photographs of the former coal pits and aerial tramways near Longyearbyen, illustrating the transport of coal to the loading dock by the sea.
